Author Archives: kirkphillips

Ruins and riches

The Americans arrived in Dresden at five in the afternoon. The boxcar doors were opened, and the doorways framed the loveliest city that most of the Americans had ever seen. The skyline was intricate and voluptuous and enchanted and absurd. … Continue reading

Posted in Germany | 3 Comments

Streets of Berlin

In late September I joined forty-four thousand fellow visitors for a tour of central Berlin. As participants in the Berlin Marathon, we circled the inner city clockwise and, over the course of a few hours, passed several historical landmarks spanning … Continue reading

Posted in Germany | 1 Comment

A ramble through Dingle

The rain was steady, as I strained to see the next waymark on the climb up Mount Brandon. The black marker posts did not identify an obvious footpath, but instead indicated the general direction—uphill through a marshy field of rubble. … Continue reading

Posted in Ireland | 1 Comment

Coasting through Croatia

Dubrovnik (I’m touring Croatia, Slovenia, and Bosnia-Herzegovina. To read about Slovenia and Bosnia, please see the previous posts, “Breaking free” and “Building bridges.”) To sleep in the hill town of Motovun, Croatia, a steep hike is necessary, either a short one from … Continue reading

Posted in Croatia | 1 Comment

Building bridges

(I’m touring Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, and Slovenia. To read about Slovenia, please see the previous post, “Breaking free.”) The region now known as Bosnia-Herzegovina is a melting pot that never melted. The country has three major ethnic groups, three self-governing territories and … Continue reading

Posted in Bosnia-Herzegovina | 2 Comments

Breaking free

The Slovenian city of Ljubljana (yoob yee AH nah) spent most of World War II in solitary confinement. In 1942 Fascist Italy imprisoned the city, encircling it with nineteen miles of barbed wire. On the perimeter, 206 watchtowers and bunkers … Continue reading

Posted in Slovenia | 11 Comments

High old time (Part 2)

I’m in Peru, preparing to hike the Inca Quarry Trail and visit Machu Picchu. To read “High old time (Part 1),” please see the previous post. After breakfast, our group of nine turned in our packed duffels and left Cusco in the … Continue reading

Posted in Peru | 6 Comments