I’ve been fortunate to travel throughout much of Scotland during my tour. I spent four weeks in Edinburgh, followed by six weeks in the Highlands and islands. I was drawn to explore some of Scotland’s more remote areas and learn about its complicated, turbulent, and often heartbreaking history. I found the story of Scotland made real by the preservation of its architectural remnants, some thousands of years old. At the same time, I was overwhelmed by the majesty of its landscape and the irrepressibility of the Scots themselves. I stayed in twenty-one different B&Bs and hotels, visited thirteen islands and seventeen castles, took eighteen ferry sailings and seven train rides, and rented four cars.

Here are the “best-ofs” from my trip:

Most memorable experiences

• Edinburgh Festival
• Hike to Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh
• Hike along the cliffs in Esha Ness, Shetland Islands
• Hike to Old Man of Hoy sea stack, Isle of Hoy, Orkney Islands
• Skara Brae and Ring of Brodgar, Orkney Islands
• Drive through Assynt, north of Ullapool
• Drive through North Lewis, Outer Hebrides
• Hike through Quiraing, Isle of Skye
• Live ceilidh music, Pier Hotel, Portree, Isle of Skye
• Drive through Ardmeanach Peninsula, Isle of Mull

Esha Ness, Shetland Islands

Best scenery

• Esha Ness, Shetland Islands
• Isle of Hoy, Orkney Islands
• Assynt, north of Ullapool
• North Lewis, Outer Hebrides
• Quiraing, Isle of Skye
• Cuillin range, Isle of Skye
• Ardmeanach Peninusula, Isle of Mull
• Glencoe
• Ferry from Craignure to Port Askaig, Isle of Islay
• Train from Oban to Glasgow

Edinburgh Castle

Best sites visited

• Edinburgh Castle
• Palace of Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh
• Skara Brae, Orkney Islands
• Calanais Standing Stones, Outer Hebrides
• Eilean Donan Castle, Isle of Skye
• Iona Abbey
• Culloden Battlefield
• Inverary Castle
• Laphroaig distillery, Isle of Islay
• Stirling Castle

Tobermory, Isle of Mull

Most appealing villages

• Stromness, Orkney Islands
• Ullapool
• Portree, Isle of Skye
• Tobermory, Isle of Mull
• Inverary
• Corrie, Isle of Arran
• Skipness, Mull of Kintyre
• The twin villlages of Portnahaven and Port Wemyss, Isle of Islay
• Saint Andrews
• Anstruther

Kilchrenan House, Oban

Best places I stayed

• Ferry Inn, Stromness, Orkney Islands
• Ardconnel House, Inverness
• Mingarry Park Guest House, Acharacle
• Carminish House, Leverburgh, South Harris, Outer Hebrides
• Kilchrenan House, Oban
• Struan House, Tarbert
• Octofad Farm, Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay
• Waterfront, Anstruther

Best foods

• Steamed mussels
• Poached or smoked salmon
• Pan-seared scallops
• Fish and chips (haddock or halibut)
• Marinated sardines, anchovies, and herring
• Bangers and mash
• Venison sausage
• Cream soups
• Fresh-baked fruit scones with whipped cream
• Single-malt whisky

Greatest difficulties

• Finding fast, steady Wi-Fi connections in remote areas
• Negotiating oncoming traffic on single-lane roads
• Driving through roundabouts in a clockwise direction
• Finding American-style brewed coffee (didn’t happen)
• Finding a green vegetable other than mushy peas (rarely happened)
• Reading road signs in Gaelic (but glad they’re keeping it alive!)
• Making change in pounds sterling without holding up the line, er, queue
• Remembering that light switches are located outside of bathroom doors
• Trying to understand how cricket is played
• Running hill repeats up Pulpit Hill with Oban’s running club

What I will miss

• Jaw-dropping mountain scenery and seascapes
• Fresh seafood on the piers
• Narrow cobblestone streets in the old towns
• Stone walls and bridges in the country
• Dogs in pubs
• Efficient public transportation via trains, ferries, and buses
• The smell of burning peat
• Prehistoric standing stones, cairns, brochs, and hillforts around every corner
• Sheep in the middle of the road
• The Scots’ dry sense of humor