Category Archives: England


Test-kit tour of the UK

Once upon a time, I planned a trip to England. Three postponements later, I was finally able to set off. Traveling internationally during a global pandemic required some additional measures. In total, I took three COVID-19 tests—one within three days … Continue reading

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Town and gown

English cities York and Cambridge were both settled in the Stone Age and ruled in turn by the Romans, Anglo-Saxons, Vikings, and Normans. Over the centuries, a fascinating cast of characters walked their streets while making history. York, a quintessential … Continue reading

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Mersey beat

So ferry, cross the Mersey ‘Cause this land’s the place I love And here I’ll stay. (Gerry and the Pacemakers, 1964) My daughter, Allie, called going to Liverpool my pilgrimage. Maybe it was. In the summer of 1963 I was … Continue reading

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When I emerged from the underground station near Big Ben, I was surrounded by thousands of people, most wearing red poppies in their lapels. Some wore medals pinned to their suits and military berets on their heads. Others were in … Continue reading

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Hiking through the hyphens

The Cotswolds of south central England is known for its rolling hills, stone villages, and hyphenated names, such as Stow-on-the-Wold and Bourton-on-the-Water. An extensive network of trails connects its small towns, many of which seem untouched by time. Hiking through the Cotswolds … Continue reading

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Hallowed ground

It’s an old story. Father sends son away to college. Son returns home with a social disease. Son is thrown out of the house. In this telling, the father is the king of ancient Britain. The son is a prince … Continue reading

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In pursuit of pirates

I was expecting to be swashbuckled in Penzance. Pirate restaurants, pirate tours, pirate harbor cruises. Guides in three-cornered hats and flouncy shirts. Gift shops selling souvenir eyepatches. I was almost dreading such an obvious tourism strategy. Yet, incredibly, the town of … Continue reading

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