Turning of the tide

Bayeux FR

For the Allies, capturing the French port of Cherbourg in the northwestern corner of Normandy was a top priority.

The invasion force needed a deep-water harbor from which to readily unload troops, equipment, and supplies for its push onto the continent. Early control of Cherbourg was critical to Operation Overlord’s success. 

Hitler believed any Allied invasion would fail without Cherbourg and ordered the city to be made invincible.

Over the centuries the city and port, surrounded by cliffs, had been fortified many times. The Nazis bolstered the historical battlements with a nine-mile perimeter of forts and pillboxes, mortar and machine-gun emplacements, tunnels, minefields, anti-tank ditches, and barbed wire.

Twenty artillery batteries were installed. Twenty-one thousand defenders were dug in.

Twelve days after D-Day the Allies launched their attack on Cherbourg. Meanwhile, the Germans began to demolish the port’s facilities and mine the harbor.

Allied progress through the barriers was slow and the fighting furious. In support of the ground troops, United States Navy ships bombarded the city. Finally, at the end of June, Cherbourg was captured, but at a high cost. Twenty-eight hundred Americans gave their lives to take the port. Over thirteen thousand more were wounded. Thousands of German troops surrendered.

Most of the mines were swept from the harbor by mid-July. Six weeks after D-Day and two weeks after the capture of Cherbourg, transport ships from England began to arrive. 

My dad was aboard one of them. He was barely eighteen.

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A fortnight in Provence

Villefranche-sur-Mer FR
Villefranche-sur-Mer

After a night of partying on a yacht in the harbor at Villefranche-sur-Mer, three young couples decided to come ashore for breakfast.

They tied their dinghy up to a small dock and chose a café on the promenade. They ordered espressos, croissants, and champagne.

On a dare, one of the young women ran to the end of the dock and dove into the harbor. Her companions cheered. Not to be outdone, her boyfriend followed suit.

As they clambered dripping onto the dock, an employee of a harbor-cruise company informed them diving from the company’s dock and swimming in the harbor were not allowed.

The boyfriend resented being told what he couldn’t do. The two argued. Quickly, tempers flared.

The boyfriend shoved the cruise employee into the water. His mates pulled him out and confronted the partiers. A larger fight erupted between the two groups, as punches were thrown by both sides.

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A lot of Gaul

Roman gate, Reims FR
Porte de Mars, Reims

On the first day of my high-school Latin class, Mrs. Duncan declared (as did Julius Caesar before her), “Gallia est omnis divisa in partes tres.” Translation: “Gaul is a whole divided into three parts.”

Gaul? It was Greek to me.

Caesar conquered the three parts of Gaul between 58 and 50 BCE. Millions were killed or enslaved during the invasion.

The region known to Caesar as Gaul is now France, Belgium, and parts of Italy, Germany, and Switzerland.

The conquerors and the conquered proceeded to romanize the place. On a recent visit to France, I saw lots of evidence of their public projects.

My first stop was Reims (pronounced to rhyme with taunts), a city in the former province of Champagne in northeast France.

Founded around 18 BCE by a Gallic tribe, Reims became the second largest city in Roman Gaul with a population of over fifty thousand. Its residents enjoyed numerous amenities, including an aqueduct, marketplace, arena, theater, temples, and baths.

Nothing remains of these monuments above ground, except the mammoth Porte de Mars, the last remaining entry gate into the city. Below the surface, however, it’s another story, best told while the champagne chills.

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Shakedown tour of the Pyrenees

Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
Castelnaud-la-Chapelle

July 13, 2013

In Pamplona, the week-long Festival of San Fermín raged on. Again, the bulls ruled the course, goring two and injuring twenty-one more in a historic pile-up at the ring’s entrance.

To read about my visit to Pamplona, please see the previous post, Running of the fools.”

However, it was time to leave the revelry behind. Like guests sneaking out of a raucous party, friends Rob and Mandy and I checked out of our hotel in Pamplona and begin our driving tour of northern Spain and southern France.

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